History of St. Nicholas Kirkyard, Aberdeen

I want to continue writing wee history posts on all the places I visit on my travels. This post is on the St. Nicholas Kirk and yard in Aberdeen and I would recommend a visit to this historic and important place if you are interested in Scottish history and graveyards.

Situated in the city centre of Aberdeen on Union Street is the historic St. Nicholas Kirk and Kirkyard. Known locally as the “Mither Kirk” ( mother church) the church dates back to the 12th century and is named after Saint Nicholas who was the patron saint of sailors and merchants. If you are familiar with Aberdeen maritime history then this is very apt. (I can also recommend Aberdeen’s Maritime museum if you want to find out more). It is clear the importance of faith and the kirk here in Aberdeen and for those who undertook such dangerous work.

Site records first mention St. Nicholas in 1151 under Pope Adrian and it has been the heart of Aberdeen ever since. At the time it would have been one of the largest medieval kirks in Scotland. Many of the surrounding buildings in Aberdeen at the time would have been built from timber, so the stone church of St. Nicholas was able to survive the great fire in Aberdeen in 1244.

Norse bloody history

Records have also indicated that the Kirk could have been part of a Norse raid in 1153. King Eyestein Haraldsson of Norway attacked Aberdeen in the 1150’s.

The vikings arrived in the harbour with three small longboats and attack the city and people of Aberdeen. It is said that Haraldsson “ killed many people and wasted the city”.

However, there is very little evidence of much else on the vikings in Aberdeen, there are more records of them in nearby Cruden Bay and along the Orkney coastline.

Witchcraft & Imprisonment

Another darker side of the history of the kirk is during the witchcraft panics in Scotland during the 1590’s.

I remember reading this when I was studying for my tour guide training and it sent shudders down me, but the kirk building itself was used as a holding prison for those women wrongly accused of witchcraft.

The Aberdeen city archives show that payments were made to a local blacksmith for the iron rings and shackles needed to imprison these poor people.

Iron rings were set into the stone pillars inside the church, they were used to imprison and torture people until their upcoming trial. Many of those accused were persecuted through the bleak Aberdeen winters and were kept in horrible conditions for months on end.

Aberdeen’s main witch hunt panic was in 1597 and 23 women and one man were condemned under the Witchcraft Act, under the reign of King James the 6th of Scotland. 

If you are interested in the History of Scottish witchcraft, you can listen to my Edinburgh audio tour here.

The Graveyard

The graveyard is pretty full with tombstones and there is a stone pathway that takes you through the centre of it. Many of the tombstones are now illegible, and through archaeological research, many thousands of bones have been discovered, with some being built into the walls itself.

The cemetery is very fascinating with many table top tombstones, different designs showcasing that person's trade, their beliefs. Below I have included a tombstone of a sailor and I liked the intricate design included on the stone.

At the back of the kirk, there is a large sign near the School Hill entrance which details who is buried within the yard, you’ll see many scholars and provosts on the list.

Notable Burials

Dr A. Moir

People of interest within the graveyard include Dr Andrew Moir, an Anatomist who’s own medical school was destroyed during riots in Aberdeen after notorious murderers and body snatchers, Mr Burke and Mr Hare took place in Edinburgh. He was chased by an angry mob in the city centre and sought to seek shelter from the mob inside St. Nicholas kirkyard.

He is buried now here in the grounds and has a table top design tombstone.

Wizard of the North

John Henry Anderson or “Wizard of the North” was a professional magician and street performer. He was born in Torphins, Aberdeenshire and began his stage career in London in the 1830’s. The famous magic trick of taking an item (usually a white rabbit) from the inside of a top hat was popularised by John H. Anderson.

He acquired the nickname “Wizard of the north” from the well known writer Sir Walter Scott. By the age of 23, he was performing within high society circles and royal courts which included an audience with Queen Victoria. He returned to Aberdeen later in his life and is now buried within the graveyard. Anderson died aged 60 the same year world famous Harry Houdini was born and the illusionist travelled to Aberdeen to see and maintain his tombstone.

William Dyce

Another burial of note is Scottish painter William Dyce. He was born in Aberdeen and studied in nearby Marischal College before beginning an artistic career at the Royal Academy in London. During the 1820’s he visited Rome, Italy and sought inspiration there and was influenced by the many Renaissance paintings there. He became an expert on Italian art, mosaics and frescos and was commissioned to paint a fresco inside the Houses of Parliament, although he died before his work was to be completed.

Most notably, he is known for his contributions to art education here in the UK, he was to become the head of the Royal College of Art in London.

More Modern Times
Throughout history, the building itself unfortunately fell into decay in the 18th century, with the Kirk we know today and see being built between 1751- 1755 with the help of well known Architect, Archibald Simpson. 

Despite hundreds of years of history, the Reformation and religious service, the last Kirk session was in December 2020. 

Since then, the building and yard have recently been taken over by an arts charity Scotland Art in 2024.

Through their archaeological digs they have uncovered around 300 burials within the church building and through careful data some of the burials date back to the 11th century. The charity has plans to rejuvenate the Kirk and uplift this area of union street (which is sorely needed in my opinion).

Plans to have various entertainment events and provide support for those in need - a food bank could also be based there along with a heritage trail showcasing Aberdeen’s history.

The Kirkyard at the moment is only open through the day and gates are closed at 4pm, so bear that in mind if you wish to visit. (June 2025).